Taiwan vol. 3 (Sep 2025)
Trimeresurus gracilis
Taiwan has always been a dream destination for herpers. The island may look small on a map, but it’s packed with biodiversity, from lush lowland forests to misty mountain slopes above 2000 meters. Venomous vipers, elegant colubrids, strange endemics: you name it, Taiwan has it. So when Artur’s birthday came around, he knew he wanted to celebrate by heading into the wild chasing snakes with good friends in one of the most beautiful corners of Asia.
This year, his main target was none other than Kikuchi habu (Trimeresurus gracilis), the elusive and endemic Taiwan mountain pit viper. He set off with a good friend from abroad and once they landed in Kaohsiung, they were greeted by Woody, an amazing local herper who has an eye for spotting snakes where most people would just see rocks and leaves. After quick greetings at the airport, they rented a car and hit the road. Five hours of driving straight toward the southeastern mountains.
Their first target that evening was the legendary Siamese Russell’s viper (Daboia siamensis), but since they arrived a bit late, the snake gods weren’t on their side. No luck this time. A quick bite of food, and it was time for their first night hike!
The night started well with a many-banded krait (Bungarus multicinctus) gliding along a rocky wall. Soon after, they found a couple of Kraepelin’s cat snakes (Boiga kraepelini), followed by a Gonyosoma frenatum, clinging to the vegetation.
As they cruised the mountain roads later that night, the diversity kept rolling in: several Taiwan habus (Protobothrops mucrosquamatus), a couple of wolf snakes (Lycodon spp.), a slug snake (Pareas komaii), and the highlight, a massive and very angry king rat snake (Elaphe carinata). Artur had only ever seen these beautiful snakes as roadkills before, so encountering one alive and ready to pose was a birthday gift in itself.
The next morning, they “woke up early” (herper early, not normal early) and drove high into the mountains, above 2000 meters, to search for the Kikuchi habu (Trimeresurus gracilis). This species is a true Taiwanese endemic, found only in high-altitude habitats. It’s slender, cryptic, and perfectly adapted to life among rocky slopes and bamboo forests.
When they arrived, the sun was blazing and the heat was intense, which made them a bit worried. Still, they started searching right away. Their first snake of the day was a Taiwan tiger keelback (Rhabdophis formosanus). The first individual was in shed, dull and cloudy-eyed, but minutes later they found another one in perfect condition. It was absolutely stunning! It’s both venomous and poisonous, storing toxins from the toads it eats in special neck glands as a defense against predators.
Not long after, the moment they had been waiting for finally happened. They spotted their first Trimeresurus gracilis nestled between the rocks! Artur’s birthday wish granted. The joy of seeing this snake in its natural habitat was indescribable. That day they found not one, but three individuals!
On the way back down, Woody’s sharp eyes picked out a Stejneger’s bamboo snake (Pseudoxenodon stejnegeri), also known as the “false cobra” for its threat display.
They made another attempt at the Daboia spot that evening, but once again, no luck. And then the weather decided to turn things up a notch. Super Typhoon Ragasa was rolling in and by nightfall the wind howled, the rain poured, and the forest went eerily quiet. They tried another site but turned up only some common species before calling it quits. Even the mountain road that had been alive with snakes the night before was completely silent.
The next day was chaos. Driving back toward the airport meant battling heavy rain, wild gusts of wind, and flooded roads. They stopped briefly by the coast to watch the waves, and honestly, these were the biggest, most furious waves they’ve ever seen. Nature’s power on full display. For a moment, they weren’t even sure if their flight back to Hong Kong would take off, but somehow they made it out safely just in time. Hong Kong airport closed for 36 hours shortly after and the typhoon wreaked havoc in Taiwan, including the roads where they cruised.
And that wrapped up Artur’s birthday adventure in Taiwan. Between the venomous icons, the endemic treasures, and the thrill of herping through a super typhoon, it’s a trip he won’t ever forget. Big thanks to Jesse for joining him on this adventure, and to Woody for making it all possible!
Taiwan delivered everything Artur hoped for and more, and we know we’ll both be back for another adventure. Until next time!
With Jesse and Woody
